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Pete

GoE Labs: How-To!,Hot-Wire Foam Cutter, Core, variable power, Power Supply, for $20

Hot-Wire Power Unit:
Don't forget the accessories like the
Steve O The Mach 11 Foam-Erator Extreme (Turbo) How-To
(deluxe Scroll saw unit) !

Also see the much simpler GoE Labs: How-To, The Mach 2 EZ (also Turbo) Anyone Can Make HotSaw..., inspired by Steve_O's but way easier to build !



Power Unit


shown with Optional switch/outlet combo +~$7.00
(because I always need another plug for something)




The Boring part:
DISCLAIMER: Knowledge of basic electric wiring applies as well as safety.
The information contained herein is supplied AS-IS. Suitability for any particular use is not guaranteed. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, and have it be known that the GoE, publishers, designers and testers have made every effort to present accurate information. Use of this information is soley the at the risk of the builder and/or end user. The builder and end user shall NOT hold the GoE, Designers and Testers liable for any dammages consequential or otherwise, of any type for the accuracy, suitability of use of the project described herin



Power Unit
Item Qty $$$$$ Description
1 1 ea $1.49 2 gang surface electical box
2 1 ea $4.79 cheap dimmer, rotary
3 1 ea $ .79 light switch
4 1 ea $13.50 power low voltage supply PONY model PET-120-12-60
5 1 ea $2.00 appliance cord, grounded
(aka suicide cord )
6 2 ea $ .49 Wire Fittings
7 1 ea $ .09 medium small wirenut (the other 3 came with the dimmer)
8 1 ea $ 1.19 Steel Cover, 2 gang
Cutouts depend on swithch


NOTE: if the PET-120-12-60 is out of stock the PET-120-12-75 will work nicely also The 75 is 75 Watts ( vs 60 Watts) it otherwise a form fit and function equivalent. It will heat the wires a tad more on full power, and could cause hotwires to burn out faster, but that is what the dimmer is all about.
Notes: Initial testing shows that a 1 foot section of the guitar wire works pretty well. The whole string was tested also and it too will cut ....

Power Unit Assembly



General simplified schematic of the circuit,
(shown with outlet and switch)



Parts Ready for assembly.
Notice that it was necessary to trim the aluminum on the dimmer so it would fit in the box correctly. This is usually for heat dissipation, but we are not even close to needing it

Top assembly, be sure to add the wires to the switch, as it will be near impossible to once they are mounted


Electrical box layout, with the power supply mounted beneth ( drill some holes and use the extra hardware that came with the cover) where the switch will be. The main AC comes in on the bottom, and the 12V out the top I used a section of the cords insulation that was stripped back to cover the 12v leads, keeping them protected from shorting


General Arrangement with initial wiring in place

Wire the unit up, keeping in mind where all the wires will go I opted to make it close as shown so it can be hinged closed

Carefully close the unit up, Taking care to place the wirenuts as shown (so we can close it up)

Nearly Finished, All we need is a terminal Strip

Tags: goe labs, carving, cutter, foam, goe, hot wire, hot-wire, hotcutter, hotwire, how to

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16 Comments

Pete Comment by Pete on September 23, 2009 at 10:26pm
yes the diagram is correct, and it shouldn't matter which black. Check the docs with the dimmer just to be 100%,
I've not seen one that needs a specific black.
If they're both black with no differences eg stripes dots etc, then it doesn't matter
Nick Miller Comment by Nick Miller on September 23, 2009 at 10:20pm
But that wiring diagram is accurate, otherwise? Does it matter which black wire on the switch goes to the black wire on the transformer and/or power cord?
Pete Comment by Pete on September 23, 2009 at 10:09pm
Perfect. I have used click off rotary dimmers, not Push on/off ones .
The problem with the push on/off is you're never sure if its on or off.
I added the switch, so you could dial in your optimum cutting temperature, and just flip it on and off at a consistent temperature, but that is the beauty, if you don't want it, you don't have to.
Nick Miller Comment by Nick Miller on September 23, 2009 at 10:03pm
Could one just as easily use a push-button rotary dimmer? I imagine it would free up some space in the container. I'm new to wiring, but this is my situation: I've got a dimmer with 2 black wires and a green wire. the power cord, like any power cord, has a white, green, and black wire, and the PONY transformer has a black and white wire (and of course the two blue ones)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b120/DJEDI296/setup.jpg

can someone verify whether or not the diagram above illustrates the correct hookup for this?
mysfit Comment by mysfit on April 26, 2009 at 4:39pm
Alternate source for the 60W power supply

http://www.contractorlighting.com/fulham-pony-class-2pet1201260-p-524.html?osCsid=d3d16aaf3ebba597d099e302029e72a8
WitchOtastic Comment by WitchOtastic on April 21, 2009 at 1:03pm
great details....thanks for sharing this...
Pete Comment by Pete on April 20, 2009 at 11:25pm
See steves cutter the G string is bout the right gauge for cutting
Bill Steinke Comment by Bill Steinke on April 20, 2009 at 2:38pm
What happened to the G string? Don't tell me you were overcome with modesty...
How is the wire manipulated to create various shapes and cuts? I'm guessing you wear gloves and bend the G string as desired...? Are there options to the G string to enable etching or other techniques?
Improviz Comment by Improviz on April 20, 2009 at 1:49pm
Seriously, powder coat that bad boy!
Lotus Comment by Lotus on April 20, 2009 at 1:18pm
Where is the color paint job you can't have a power supply without a cool paint job = )

Loks awesome and so going ot make one
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